Why we come to Timbuktu is a mystery. It’s the furthest away from everywhere if you’re speaking English. But there’s plenty of French, Bambara, Songhay, Peul (Fula), and Tamashek spoken here as well, more than English bien sur. But it’s only in English that we say, “It’s as far away as Timbuktu.

Mystery Tour Guide

Coincidence or fate? One reason we’re here is because US Black Beat poet Ted Joans, who died eight years ago, had a house here in the 60’s-70’s (rent $25/year, so the story goes). Laura Consiglia, his widow, had written us a letter if inspiration and info. One clue was the name Sana Sibily, a man who had put them up on his roof when they were last here, in the 80s. Coincidentally, the Bradt Guide to Mali (I like this British series, and so far as I know it’s the only guidebook to Mali – the Rough Guide to West Africa has an excellent chapter) mentions one Sana Sibily as a good contact for desert culture (Tuareg (the “blue people” – from indigo-dyed clothes, nomads of the Sahara) and great roots-rock Tinariwen).

So when I ask at the desk of La Colombe Hotel they say Of course, Sana Sibily, he likes to hang out at the dibiterie (barbecue) next door. He’s not there, but the dibiterie owner calls him, and ten minutes later I am approached by a big sweet face covered with a shocking blue atell (desert turban). His first words, “un ami de Ted Joans,” come complete with tears  – his good friend is my good friend, so we are immediate best friends. Say hello to the King of the Short Cut, the Tree Planter of the Desert, Sana Sibily, friend of Ted.

Where Ted Joans Lived

On the other hand, Sana doesn’t have a house in town, let alone a roof. He takes us to Ted’s house, but unlike Laura’s letter, there’s no good wooden door with brass details, the hallmark of old Timbuktu architecture – #22 111 St. (also known as Omore, Omo’s Street, in Djengeri-Ber), has a corrugated tin door. And the layout’s wrong. And the “good people” who were living here when Laura and Ted were here have morphed into a single, poor blind woman who appears to be 80. The photos of Ted that Sana raves over, promises to bring to us, which will be so great for the film, seem to  have been put in a suitcase that disappeared in the sand. The mysteries expand and contract with language difference – Sana’s English is focused and right off the tourist trek. On the griot trail, there’s a marvelous disconnect. Who’s whose what?

And meanwhile everywhere we go we get a back route tour of town that’s breathtaking, full of dailiness, mud brick buildings, open sewers, kids playing soccer. Sana books us for what turns out to be a terrific interview with the Director of Ancient Manuscripts, who, when prodded, takes us back to la tradition orale and a wonderful story of three stars colliding – one for salt, one for limestone, and the one in the middle, sand. Fine, warm sand.

Bob Holman is the host of a new travel series focused on endangered languages called ON THE ROAD WITH BOB HOLMAN on LINK TV. He traveled to West Africa, Middle East and Asia and these are his blog stories from his travels. More information at http://www.rattapallax.com/blog/on_the_road/